https://back7.co/home/raspberry-pi-recovery-kit
Back7 Logo.jpg

BACK7.CO
Off-Grid Cyberdeck! The Raspberry Pi Recovery Kit
Nov 6
Off-Grid Cyberdeck! The Raspberry Pi Recovery Kit
Raspberry Pi
Building Internet-connected things seems obvious today, but what about when there’s no Internet?

The concept often feels like something out of a science fiction movie or a doomsday prepper’s handbook- and while this device can work in both scenarios, it’s also about understanding resiliency for your projects and being a good steward of the systems in place today.

I’ve been posting the progress of this project on Instagram, Twitter, and Facebook all month, and this is my full build log of the project. You’ll find the parts list at the bottom of this article. They are affiliate links that help me make more cool stuff, and by using them you don’t pay any more than usual- so thank you for supporting my projects, even just a little bit.

I posted about a month ago on my retrospective from four years ago when I made the Raspberry Pi Field Unit, which was generously shared on Hackaday then, and I posted a follow-up on Reddit several weeks back. There’s a few common issues that I came across:

There was no keyboard!

The solution isn’t truly waterproof

Numerous holes in the case would make ingress of water or moisture even more common

My wiring on the original project was a mess

The display took up too much room and was too hard to mount

The project was too hard to maintain or fix

Several connectors were very fragile

Material choices for the internal structure were not good- I picked plastics that were too brittle, and the overall structure was poor

No EM shielding from the preppers in the audience

I could go on and on, but those are the key points. I’ll address each of these below:
No keyboard

In 2014 I wasn’t aware of any reduced footprint keyboards, and I did look. Even looking today there wasn’t any that fit common search terms, but as a lurker in /r/mechanicalkeyboards I did find out and had already bought a Plaid keyboard kit. As luck turns out, it was a perfect fit. It’s my first orthagonal keyboard, but it matches the cyberdeck feel of the project. I’m using DSA Beyond keycaps and Cherry MX Silent switches, all hand-soldered. More pics are here, but here’s a shot below:
JAY01429.jpgJAY01338.jpgJAY01349.jpgJAY01350.jpgJAY01354.jpgJAY01404.jpgJAY01407.jpgJAY01428.jpgJAY01430.jpg
Waterproofing Issues

To state it up front, I did not intend to make something fully submersible for long periods. This is a hobby project and in order to do that, you end up using high-end adhesives. No thanks. Instead, I chose to move all the components and connectors inside the Pelican case. While not all Pelican cases seem to be rated to be waterproof, I’m at least not drilling any holes into this one.
JAY01325.jpg
Wiring

My wiring abilities from several years ago were pretty poor- notably I just randomly selected lengths of wire and shoved in what didn’t fit. Two simple rules seem to have helped me wire this project better. First, use only the length of wire needed, but make sure there’s slack to do connecting and soldering, and make sure wires are equal length when connecting to the same part. All of those more or less go together, but help reduce the amount of clutter. Second, I try to zip tie cables that route together. Zip ties can be the enemy, but in small confined spaces they’re very important. By grouping cables logically, it’s easier to trace cables when troubleshooting. On this project I also grouped the smaller groups together, since I had to route around some of the internals. All in all, I’m really happy how it came out.
JAY01400.jpg
JAY01401.jpg
JAY01402.jpg
JAY01408.jpg
JAY01411.jpg
JAY01414.jpg
JAY01416.jpg
JAY01417.jpg
JAY01418.jpg
JAY01419.jpg
JAY01420.jpg
JAY01400.jpgJAY01401.jpgJAY01402.jpgJAY01408.jpgJAY01411.jpgJAY01414.jpgJAY01416.jpgJAY01417.jpgJAY01418.jpgJAY01419.jpgJAY01420.jpg

The display on the old project is front and center, mostly because that was all that would fit. This led to compromises on internal design and connector placement. This time I used a smaller display, a 7” Official Raspberry Pi display. There’s a few benefits to this display- it has great mounting hardware and it’s also a touchscreen. That really makes it easier to skip using a mouse, which would have used a USB port- and those are in short supply on a build like this. The display also runs off 5V, so I didn’t need any of the 12V circuitry like I did on the last build. Reducing component costs is something I try to keep an eye on, and by reducing component count, I reduced wiring and the space the power circuitry used.
JAY01342.jpg
JAY01333.jpg

With all I’ve gone over so far, it should be obvious the original version was very complex- I still have it and love it, but it’s nearly impossible to maintain. The wiring is a mess, and some of the components are discontinued. This means maintaining it is something I’ve just plain avoided. I mentioned poor material choices, and that included using a thin plastic sheet. Even though it was precision cut over at Big Blue Saw all these years ago, I didn’t leave enough tolerance from the edges, and I picked a material that was too brittle. If I had to go back again, I’d probably use sheet aluminum and cover it with vinyl- that alone would get me quite a bit of space.

Instead, this time I printed all of the internal parts on a 3D printer, namely a Prusa I3 MK3/S. That gave me the ability to iterate quickly and test more risky designs, but it also meant that some parts like the main frame I printed 3 or 4 times, and each took more than 24 hours to print.
JAY01388.jpg
JAY01361.jpg
Connectors

This time I still used two mil-spec connectors from McMaster Carr, despite their price. I already had them on hand from another project, and their panel mounting options are really solid. As you can see in the photo below I crammed as many connectors is as I could.
JAY01383.jpgJAY01384.jpgJAY01353.jpgJAY01340.jpgJAY01352.jpgJAY01355.jpgJAY01375.jpgJAY01376.jpgJAY01385.jpgJAY01401.jpg

I also had to offset some of the connectors or switches based on their depth to make sure they were still usable while still being able to close the lid. This time the connectors are very functional, the mil-spec ones can be easily remapped to whatever Pi pins you want with a simple flat head screwdriver.
JAY01378.jpg

Most of the other connectors I used this time are pretty affordable, coming from either Adafruit or Amazon. I really wanted to add a USB C connector, but the panel mount options for USB C were simply too big to make sense on the panel.
EMP Shielding

Electromagnetic pulse shielding is something spent quite a bit of time thinking about. I could have lined the inside with copper, but any EMP shielding would also block WiFi signals. There’s no great option for external antennas on the Raspberry Pi, so it was either have WiFi or EMP shielding in the case.

I ended up making a compromise and shielded the box that I store the project in. You can see the gallery below of how I cut the box at the seams, turned it inside out and re-glued it, then lined it with copper foil and distressed the box:
JAY01363.jpg
JAY01364.jpg
JAY01365.jpg
JAY01366.jpg
JAY01442.jpg
JAY01443.jpg
JAY01444.jpg
JAY01445.jpg
JAY01446.jpg
JAY01448.jpg
JAY01549~2.jpg
JAY01449.jpg
JAY01550~2.jpg
JAY01363.jpgJAY01364.jpgJAY01365.jpgJAY01366.jpgJAY01442.jpgJAY01443.jpgJAY01444.jpgJAY01445.jpgJAY01446.jpgJAY01448.jpgJAY01549~2.jpgJAY01449.jpgJAY01550~2.jpg
New Features

Finally, there are several cool features I added that I am really proud of. That includes a wire handle at the top to make it easy to pull from the enclosure. It’s also a considerable length of wire, so it can be used as spare wire in an emergency.
JAY01419.jpg

I also added an internal battery with a custom frame- this battery is giving me some trouble so I may replace it. I also did the same trick with the wire handle- it’s essentially a twisted wire with heat shrink to keep it from unraveling.
JAY01369.jpg
JAY01408.jpg

I added locking switches this time too, and my favorite new feature is the ability to turn all components on and off individually, and to switch power between the internal battery and an external one.
JAY01385.jpg

I added the network switch too- no heavy mods here besides splicing the power adapter to re-use the barrel connector.
JAY01330.jpg

I also added cooling vents- the internal Pi 4 has a fan on it, but it needed vents too- so if you look close you can see vents above the connector panel and above the display.
JAY01387.jpgJAY01384.jpgJAY01393.jpgJAY01387.jpgJAY01403.jpgJAY01394.jpgJAY01403.jpgJAY01421.jpgJAY01424.jpg

Finally, with the best for last, a little trick that I used created an effect I love- the use of two colors on the printing of the panel. The panel is mostly grey, but the raised lettering is printed in white. I’m really happy with the result.
JAY01383.jpg

Next month I’ll be focused on my collaboration with Big Blue Saw to update my 3D printing capabilities, by using their waterjet services to build two new 3D printer enclosures out of aluminum. You can follow along on my Instagram and Twitter accounts while I document that build.

Beyond that, there are some cool plans I have for the Raspberry Pi Recovery Kit:

Automate mirroring of Raspberry Pi images

Create a repository for apt packages for Raspbian in case of an extended internet outage

Script the periodic downloads of Linux install images

Thank you for reading! This was a fun project to work on, and I hope someone remixes it and comes up with their own. All the parts are listed below, and the 3D files are shared under the Creative Commons license for noncommercial use.
Parts List

Pelican 1300 Case

Raspberry Pi 4

Raspberry Pi Fan

Raspberry Pi 7” Touchscreen Display

Raspberry Pi Terminal Block Adapter & Ribbon Cable

Hookup Wire

Space Grey PETG Filament

Ethernet jack panel connector

Barrel jack power connector

USB panel connectors

Plaid Ortholinear Keyboard Kit

Cherry MX Silent Keyboard Switches

DSA Beyond Keycaps

NKK Switches or find them on eBay for much cheaper

Mil Spec Connectors (panel and cable)

Netgear Switch

Stainless M5 Screws (Mostly 12mm)

Stainless set screws

Clevis Rod Ends

3D Files (Tinkercad and Thingiverse)

Show 24 comments
Comments (24)
Newest First
Subscribe via e-mail
Preview Post Comment…
bac0n 2 days ago · 0 Likes

Something like this crossed with the CollapseOS concept would be pretty awesome!
Preview Post Reply
Sam 3 days ago · 0 Likes

When do you do the disaster radio case to compliment? Could do with a waterproof 3sprint case.. https://www.reddit.com/r/esp32/comments/e3dafv/long_range_chat_app_on_cheap_lora_board/
Preview Post Reply
M. 5 days ago · 0 Likes

-Wherecan i buy this thing?
-It's price?
Preview Post Reply
Seth586 6 days ago · 0 Likes

I wonder if you glued in a small box inside the pellican case for the wifi antennas, then used a few layers of permatex copper spray-a-gasket inside the case?

That way the wifi antennas would be outside the shielding?
Preview Post Reply
Fye Guile 6 days ago · 0 Likes

I just realized there's no space key on that keyboard... what?
Preview Post Reply
Rob 6 days ago · 0 Likes

Awesome project!
Preview Post Reply
Mark 6 days ago · 0 Likes

Nevermind, just located them. ;)
Preview Post Reply
Mark 6 days ago · 0 Likes

Are there links available to the files for the 3D printed parts?
Preview Post Reply
Aaron 6 days ago · 0 Likes

So are you going to sell the parts as a kit or fully assembled product? Small business possibility!
Preview Post Reply
Cristian Longo 6 days ago · 0 Likes

Amazing job, you are a very talented & smart individual, you will do great in life!
Preview Post Reply
GD 6 days ago · 0 Likes

Nice work !
Instead of a raspberry pi I would go for a A20 olimex. It has a lower power consumption and might be easier to debug when off-grid than a raspberry Pi.
Preview Post Reply
Alberto 6 days ago · 0 Likes

Awesome, superb work.
It's sexiest laptop I've ever seen!
Preview Post Reply
Benjamin Chapple A week ago · 0 Likes

I know your part list shows what you're using, but do you have a quantity count?

Also I'm absolutely terrible at wiring and pretty new. Do you have a diagram possibly?

Thanks in advance!
Preview Post Reply
VLD A week ago · 0 Likes

Absolutely awesome build, definitely something I'd consider getting as a kit or a prebuilt!
Preview Post Reply
Bryce Ashey A week ago · 0 Likes

Question - is this the keyboard? Did you have to soldier it or buy a prebuilt kit? https://www.reddit.com/r/mechmarket/comments/apf0ng/gb_plaid_throughhole_kit_12x4_ortholinear/
Preview Post Reply
Zach A week ago · 1 Like

rpi-clone is pretty good for cloning an image if that's helpful. Amazing build!
Preview Post Reply
Douglas Beebe A week ago · 0 Likes

In the future, once a battery fix is made, would like to order a get or prebuilt product. I have a raspberry 4, and 7 inch display, but don't have a 3d printer to make any parts..
Preview Post Reply
Tom F8COD 2 weeks ago · 0 Likes

Very nice project ! Being a ham radio operator, I'd try to fit a rtl-sdr inside with a sma connector somewhere on the top of the front panel for the antenna to receive some radio transmissions :-)
For those not familiar with it, check it here : https://www.rtl-sdr.com/about-rtl-sdr/
Preview Post Reply
Dave Smith 6 days ago · 0 Likes

Hi. This sounds like an excellent idea. I was looking at this project last night, and I thought "woah! That looks fantastic" - then the wife said, "You don't need one"...and I was nearly talked out of it. I have a RTL-SDR dongle from a few years ago when I was experimenting with APT NOAA sats...so now I have a reason to build this...so, whilst my wife not thank you, I absolutely do!
Preview Post Reply
Benjamin Chapple 5 days ago · 0 Likes

I would very much like to see this design!
Preview Post Reply
Zach S 2 weeks ago · 0 Likes

Considering selling a few?
Preview Post Reply
Leo Mauler 3 weeks ago · 0 Likes

The parts list leaves off the battery. Which one are you using? This is an especially important detail due to the higher power requirements of the Pi 4.
Preview Post Reply
Jay Doscher 3 weeks ago · 0 Likes

Sorry, but the battery I used started having issues and is now discontinued by the manufacturer. This is still an open part of this project, and will likely be replaced by some lithium ion cells and a new battery bracket.
Preview Post Reply
Com on 3 weeks ago · 0 Likes

This is beautiful. I would flock to this in a heartbeat after an apocalyptic scenario.
Preview Post Reply
Jay Doscher
Subscribe

Get updates on my projects
Instagram

@back7.co
Camera and temperature sensor all mounted up. It's a Brio 4K and runs with stock support on Octoprint, but it needs USB3, so you need to run a Pi 4. Camera: https://amzn.to/2q9crk8 (not cheap, but amazing video quality)
Here's the mounting process for the LED light strip. I'm using the Adafruit one here (https://www.adafruit.com/product/3865). It's durable, diffused, and very cheap for how much light it puts out. It mounts along the inside/front of the top frame. That way you never have to look into the light directly.⁠ PROMO CODE:⁠ Coupon back7 now gets you 15% off $150 or more in waterjet cutting. This is in addition to free shipping for this week. This code works through Friday. Check out bigbluesaw.com.
Wow, these panels look great- you can see one mounted here as a test fit. On the side and back panel the holes line up with where 2020 rail goes. On the top, bottom, and back the holes are not needed, but they are there to keep the design using the same panel for all sides except the front door.
Black Friday here! The panels are here! These are unfinished aluminum. Thank you www.bigbluesaw.com for providing these panels for the project. They offer finishing options like bead blasting, but usually on slightly smaller parts. These are pretty big- about 60cm square, or about 24". I'll leave them unfinished for now. You can get your own design quoted here: https://www.bigbluesaw.com/index.php?option=com_estimator&itemid=0
The aluminum panels should be here soon. I'm wiring everything up. You can see the light strip, the temp sensor, and the wiring/zip tie brackets in the shot. The 2nd photo has the wiring along the filament bracket at the rear of the enclosure too.
Part of the design includes a filament spool holder since the stock Prusa one is too tall. My current system is one I'm pretty happy with so far- it uses some cheap conduit cut to length with some rollers press fit on the end. I use a long M5 screw just undersized with a 4.8mm hole, plus a cheap Amazon bearing. At the end is that funny U-shaped part, which fits into the holder on the frame. Rollers: http://bit.ly/2rjVPXj Internal Brackets: http://bit.ly/37xP1Wv
The webcam is a core part of the build, so I've made a bracket to mount a Logitech Brio 4K (https://amzn.to/2rlUXRI) to the printer enclosure 2020 frame. It's pretty simple- the bracket it two halves to grab onto the webcam base. ⁠ The part is live on Tinkercad now, and will be on Thingiverse when the article is published: http://bit.ly/2DbNzet
Two printers, two colors- grey and black. You can see the build process here- 3D print, add the threaded inserts, add the Pi4, and add the Grove Hat.⁠ This enclosure will be mounted on the back of the enclosure, on the outside. This will make it easy to get to, but the high ridge will also help reduce any bumps on the electronics. At the end of the project I'll share the plans if people want to modify and put a lid or heavier guard on it.⁠ The Grove Hat can be found here: https://amzn.to/2qnfZj5
Here's the temp sensor- it's the Adafruit breakout board for the SHT31-D. It's a high precision temperature and humidity sensor, and it doesn't require calibration. I use one sensor inside the enclosure, and another outside.⁠ This lets me get a delta of the internal temp vs. the ambient temp of the room. In future project this will do two things for me- it will let me turn on the fans in the doors to cool off the enclosure when it gets too hot, and it will also let me close some shutter doors when the environment is too cold. ⁠ The part is here: https://amzn.to/2raSslh
Playing with the @Adafruit PyPortal. Ultimately I chose not to use this right now, due to wiring complexity, the influence of the backlight on the temp sensor, and some growth needed for Circuit Python. Plus, I already have a Raspberry Pi for the enclosure so there's not really a need for another compute unit.⁠ That said, these things are pretty nifty.
Quick Follow-Up to the Raspberry Pi Recovery Kit
YouTube Tutorial- Designing a Stackable 3D Printer Enclosure in Tinkercad
Related Posts
Project Retrospective: Raspberry Pi Field Unit from 2015
Sep 30
Project Retrospective: Raspberry Pi Field Unit from 2015
Quick Follow-Up to the Raspberry Pi Recovery Kit
Nov 29
Quick Follow-Up to the Raspberry Pi Recovery Kit
The Mobile Media Bot
Sep 25
The Mobile Media Bot

Powered by Squarespace
Home
About
Contact

By using this website, you agree to our use of cookies. We use cookies to provide you with a great experience and to help our website run effectively.